Photos!

Sifnos June/July

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Syros July

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A piano and Miki Theodorakis on Syros

We ferried from Sifnos to Syros by invitation from our friends from Berlin – Klaus Salge and his wife Brigit. There we spent four days participating in the Festival of the Aegean, (http://festivaloftheaegean.com/syros.html). Klaus produced two documentary films about Miki Theodorakis, (86 year old composer and radical activist, of Zorba fame). These films premiered for the Greek audience at this festival. Friend Ranyas, from Sifnos, calls Miki ‘young’ because of his characteristic energy level. Whether or not one agrees with his politics, it is admirable that, at his age, he was one of the first to renew demonstrations arguing to oust current politicians in favor of a fresh – more democratic – political establishment.

By serendipity, Kairos, the Berkeley-based youth choir in which Karoline used to be a member, also performed at the festival a week earlier. They performed at sunset in a magnificent Orthodox church, St. Nikolaus. The choir should be proud, as the festival’s organizers reported being duly impressed. They expressed keen admiration for Director Laura Serper’s skills and quest for global peace through song.

Given that Syros is a relatively thriving island of commerce and industry, it was with high hopes that we intended to acquire a digital piano keyboard – impossible to expect on Sifnos -- so that Karoline can continue her piano lessons. When school starts again mid-September, we are promised that a piano instructor ferries from Athens to Sifnos every 2 weeks to supply the with lessons.

Our hostess Niki offered concierge services as part of the lodging package we found through airbnb.com, (http://www.airbnb.com/rooms/139070). BTW: I am now officially a big fan of the airbnb model! In addition to pointing out the Top 10 attractions of island life, Niki helped with locating a musical instrument store. Through a lengthy negotiation process in a cluttered store, we also got an earful about the current economic catastrophe that is Greece. From the owner’s point of view, he had worked a lifetime…for nothing…and, now 67, he must continue to work to fund the remainder of his life. He explains that the politicians took his tax monies to line their own pockets, instead of supplying the public welfare systems. He is two months behind rent, and – a woman entered the store, apparently intending to collect money – he shows us 3 outstanding bills that she left behind. He looked deflated, distracted, on edge, sad. He loves his guitar and fellow musicians, explaining “I can’t sleep at night because I am so worried, so I make music and I am happy for the moment.”

To push past our indecision, the owner called one of his musician friends who arrived to demonstrate the synthesizer. This friend is a husky 50-something dressed in work overalls. He is a boat builder at the local shipyards. His fingers are as hammy as the rest of his physique. He, too, bemoaned the state of the economy and called the politicians crooks. Meanwhile, his foot tapped a beat and fingers flew over the keyboard. The grin was broad and, in no time, he had me belly dancing around the store floor, (well, the 1 square meter of it that was clear of clutter). His fingers danced the keyboard while we negotiated payment. No straight forward sale was this, yet lasting memories are tied to the acquisition.

We left Syros with fondness in our hearts – for Niki’s warm hospitality; the glamour of the arts scene; the whiffs of lit beeswax candles and sweaty apron-clad ladies polishing brass in the numerous ornate churches; the melodious clatter of church bells ringing to alarm us in the mornings and after siesta; the juxtaposition of stately renovated neo-classical pastel-colored homes set amongst oozing malodorous garbage bags stacked against decades-long decaying structures; the cat colonies thriving in neglected public parks; the ouzo drunk in smoke-filled cafes frequented by rebetika players; the hunger-inducing spiced oil aroma of grilling meat wafting from taverna kitchens; the perfumed and gel-coiffed young gods and godesses who swagger along the quays in their evening finery; the quench of micro-brewed Craft beer served in frosty mugs on deadbeat hot days; the constant ferry traffic blasting horns to announce departures, and – always – the constant view of Homer’s wine dark sea.

View down onto Kastro from donkey path

Meatballs, whitewash and the church

Several evenings ago Karoline cooked Greek meatballs in a flat bean and tomato sauce, serving it over pasta. She used a flameware casserole pot made in stone bought from our favorite potter on the island, (www.sifnosstoneware.com). One can cook in the pot directly from the flame or electric burner, place it in the oven, or one of the island's public wood-burning ovens, and even into the microwave. The pot is good looking enough that the meal can be presented from it directly on the dining table. I am in awe of this pot!

While Karoline was cooking, I realized myself experiencing a rite of passage into true Sifnian life. By the light of the full moon, (which rose spectacularly over the sea), while sipping an ouzo, and listening to Manos Hadjidakis’ music, I whitewashed stripes along the stone benches and walls around the cottage. Since it takes a day of labor to produce the effect around our property, (when including a break for lunch and swim at the beach), we had resisted the task in the past, making do with the already lovely look of the stone. The whitewash gives a more polished and domesticated feel. My last strokes where aided only by moonlight, and I was groggy from a sun and ouzo filled day. Concerned, I checked my work this morning, and, while not an expectation on the island, the lines were straight enough. The effect is an improvement to the coziness of our home.

During the painting process I reflected on the first time I had seen this method used and it brings to mind the faith by which local families care for the 365 churches scattered around the island. Under the blazing mid-day sun, a young man was on hands and knees applying white wash lines between the paving stones of the outdoor reception patio in front of a small church, a careful 4 inch stroke at a time. As my awareness built, I came to realize that he, very possibly, was a member of the family (panagirades) who had volunteered to take sole responsibility for the upkeep of the church that year. The panagirade's ultimate contribution is the organizing and funding of a big celebration (eorti) on the Saint's Day after which the church had been named. Beginning at dusk, priests and deacons from the Orthodox church conduct their rites over the course of several hours, including the ritual pacing of 5 circles around the 5 loaves of bread, swinging incense canisters, while a family member hefts the saint's icon in this same circular path. After the appropriate blessings, the bread is shared with the festival's participants, wine flows, and the panagirades serves a meal. Eventually the musicians arrive and traditional Greek dance and ballad singing is enjoyed well into the wee hours of the morning. The physical reward for the panagirade's year of contribution is the right to display (and protect) the icon in their own home until the Saint's Day festival the following year. These festivals are a cornerstone of community life on Sifnos, (and the rest of the Cyclades). Already this summer, we have participated in three.

Speaking of churches, it is wedding season in Greece. Sifnos has become a popular locale for destination religious weddings. Yesterday, on our way home from a swim, we witnessed a Sifnos spectacle: the bride is relayed over the sea to the church at Chrisopigi by caique. As she steps on to stone and is escorted by her man on the ascent to the church, bouzouki and violin players stroke traditional Greek tunes into the wild sage and thyme infused air.

This coming Sunday, a friend’s daughter is marrying less ostentatiously. In Sifnos tradition, the entire town must be invited to the wedding and the family expects 800 in attendance. In a break from tradition, the family will host a more private reception dinner for only 120 in a local restaurant. We learned this news from the brother of the bride. We encountered him stepping out of his shop to launch his responsibility of travelling door-to-door in the town, formally inviting each family to participate in the church ceremony. Each time a door is opened, he will be expected to join the family in their parlor, sipping sapporo, eat snacks, and exchange pleasantries and blessings. Rolling his eyeballs, he seemed resigned and fortified to bear the inevitable hangover the following day.

Our social life

For distraction, we have been enjoying long walks that usually terminate at a beachside taverna. Along the way, we are documenting waypoints, using our compass, handheld GPS, topographical map, digital camera, pedometer, and notepad. With online tools, I am preparing a Sifnos hiking guide in English, as a contribution to the work already underway in Greek. A local retiree has connected with a conservation group based in Athens. By association, she has access to their tools and methods for documenting the plentiful trails on the island...in Greek. For the English version, she has eagerly welcomed my support. It has been a fun family affair, playing with the instruments, with me pulling it altogether. Apparently, Sifnos has the reputation as being the best hiker’s island amongst the Cyclades. Hopefully, our work will enhance that reputation.

We've also taken occasion to catch up on a year's worth of news with friends, and mostly fellow ex-pats, at beachfront restaurants. Births, weddings, deaths, physical ailments, and misadventures with 2nd home ownership dominate the conversations.

Already, our first home exchange family has arrived from Venice. They are delightful, well educated, fitfully active family of four. Karoline and the children are getting along famously, despite the lack of a shared language. While the Venetians occupy the main house, we have settled comfortably into the guest suite. Having less to maintain has been like being on a vacation and I am enjoying the greater hours of freedom--with time to write this blog--quite contentedly.

The joys of second home ownership

OK, the first post from Greece seemed to work, let's try another one!

We have been engrossed in bringing the Sifnos house to our standard. After having worked feverishly to get the Berkeley home 'hotel' ready for tenants, my last interest is to do the same all over again for the Sifnos house, working with a less well developed or maintained property. Nevertheless, this is the situation in which we have placed ourselves. On the bright side, the house is in great shape, if dusty, and smelling of such, from months of not being in use.

However, last year’s landscaping investment has been a disheartening disaster. It requires further investment -- in which direction is not an easy choice. Where lacerating winds and gnawing goats left off, wilderness has taken over. Amongst the many exotic (to me) weeds is one beautiful surprise: a bright red flowered plant has invaded with a grand display.

A week ago we had a problem with an intermittent internet connection. As is true of many house-related things, it was climate and construction style to blame for the loss of quality internet access. OTE, the Greek government and Deutsch Telecom owned phone co., was surprisingly responsive to Gerhard's visit to the local office, sending 2 techs the next day. They proved that the problem was not theirs, but rather the lines into the house from their roadside junction box. Gerhard, the tech whiz that he is, knew to ask them for gel capsule connectors and they stuffed what they could grasp into his hand. Despite language barriers, I think they warmed up to him quickly, recognizing his expertise and self-help attitude, thus were more helpful than reputed. Sure enough, when Gerhard lifted the concrete sealed block that protects the underground cavity in which the connectors sit, he found that moisture had corroded 2 of the capsules. Once replaced, everything was fine. So, while no money was required, time cost was pretty high. I can't even imagine what it would have taken if Gerhard and his knowledge were not available. There is nothing we can do about the construction approach, so we now know to keep these capsules on hand for the next time.

I could tell similar stories about repairs to the refrigerator, satellite television system, water filtration system, and washing machine. We are on guard for 'what's next'.

Oh boy! Finally, a bit of peace and quiet to generate a blog entry and my first encounter with the application this side of the Atlantic finds the interface with blogger in Greek alphabet and language! I'm groping....bear with me as I attempt the best of my intuition to navigate!

Travel to Greece went like clockwork. This was especially prized given that we carried 400 lbs in 10 pieces of luggage safely to the Sifnos house. Sifnos greeted us early each morning, still jet lagged, with the beauty of the sun ascending rapidly from the ocean in a fiery ball of orange.

As usual, the news-catching stories of Greece reaching the U.S. refer to activities largely localized in the center of Athens. It is calm everywhere else, including other parts of Athens. It was only a day or two after our arrival on the island that the general strikes occurred for 4 days and ferries from Piraeus, (Athens) were not operating. Some of our friends and regular shop owners were stranded either on Athens or on Sifnos. For example, I couldn't buy flower pots for the better part of a week and until the pottery shop owner could return from Athens. Our friend and property manager, who operates a hotel, complained to us about one family staying in his hotel who was refusing to pay for the extra nights they were obliged to remain on the island. I believe he ultimately negotiated a discount. Friends living in Athens warn all of us to stay away from the center of town. One described how she stayed away from the action, yet was still too close and caught gasping whiffs of the tear gas. She learned to declare the 'center' a broader swath of the city.

Having lived abroad before we know to be concerned about our legal position in Greece and the residency permit question. The Greek consulat in San Francisco gave us each 12 month visas, which are longer than the usual 3 month tourist visa. This was to be the first step, giving us enough time to complete the process once in Greece. To demonstrate good intentions, immediately upon arriving, we visited the island’s police office, who sent us to the municipal administration office, who told us to call the county administration on the island of Milos. For second assurances Gerhard also called the province's administration on the island of Syros. We finished with a meeting in the municipal office here on Sifnos, during which a call was made to Milos. The net of it is that, because we are American, and, because we own a house in Greece, we can use our 1 year visa as justification to stay legally the full year. That's it. No need to prove local financial resources or healthcare coverage, as we were told to expect. We must apply for another month's visa extension in our 10th month, or so, to stay the 13 months we desire. And, this is to be sufficient. All done by voice; no documentation. "Whatever", as Karoline has taught us to say.