The Nabataean Bedouins of Petra, Jordan (early January)

The Siq, Petra, Jordan

 Petra, Jordan was added as the “Eighth Wonder of the World” in 1985.  This is the land of "Lawrence of Arabia" and Indiana Jones.  If we had been asked, we would have enthusiastically caste a favorable vote. 

For this part of our journey, during the first week of January, we relied on Eco Tours to arrange for a package tour, to include all the logistics for getting in and out and in again from Israel. 

Petra needs to be experienced:  words and photographs simply do not do justice to its magnificence. 

Al Khazneh Treasury

After 3 km of walking through the silent, humbling, creepy Siq, mesmerized by the towering sandstone and quartz cliffs, we are stunned to find in stone curtained view the majestic Treasury.  One can only imagine what god-fearing awe impressed the hot, fatigued, fearful caravaners who arrived upon this view in the first century.  In an otherwise desolate desert setting, arriving at the Treasury promised water and protective lodging.   It also forewarned of the power of the nomadic Nabataean hosts.

Petra's caves used as home

UNESCO, the Jordanian government and local Nabataean councils agreed that Petra inhabitants would remove themselves from their cave homes so that Petra could become a tourist haven.  It took only one year for homes to be built in a newly created village on the outskirts.  The inhabitants migrated en masse in 1985.  Besides the offer of new homes, the citizens were also guaranteed jobs in the local tourist trade and the rights to return to the caves after the site is closed to tourists each night.  Some twenty five (probably more?) still live in the caves at the periphery of the tourist section. 

Nabadaean woman puffing a fat cigar

When taking an 8 mile hike into the back areas, we came upon two of these cave dwelling women, tattooed with decorative black lines on the face, and hands wrinkled and darkened from constant tending to brush fires for their tea, Arabic coffee, food and warmth.  On this cool morning, squatting in from of a small brush fire, they were enjoying a smoke of a powerfully aromatic herb, cast in the form of big fat cigars.

Ad Dier Monastery

Atop Ad Dier's pinnacle

After an 800 step climb at the end of a 4 mile walk we were treated to a view of the promised Ad Deir Monastery.  The treat we did not expect was an acrobatic performance atop the pinnacle of the monastery.  With heart in hand, we watched as the human ibex leapt from pinnacle to gable and back again, continuing the drama with one-legged yoga poses.  Why?  No clue!

For a taste of the Bedouin life, on offer are camel or donkey rides and tea or Arabic coffee served in a Bedouin style cave café.  Tessir, (head-dressed Nabataean man sitting on the camel in the photo), relaxes with us over tea at the café, eventually inviting us to stay overnight in one of the caves, Bedouin style.  Too bad we depart for Dahab or we would have gladly pursued the invitation.

Handmade jewelry is made by a Nabadaean women’s cooperative.  On the trek to the High Place of Sacrifice we come across Noor’s market for such jewelry.  She offers us a cup of tea and Karoline negotiates the purchase of a souvenir necklace made with a camel tooth embellished with camel bone beads.

Karoline buys Camel tooth from 26 y.o. Noor

Petra Resources:

1.   Eco Tours is highly recommended for arranging tours to Petra, Jordan from Eilat, Israel.  They also have a great reputation for organizing other tours throughout the Middle East.

2. In Eilat, Israel, we can recommend the Nova hotel.  Avoid the Blue hotel, (previously known as The Pierre).

3.  Caution:  Eilat is very expensive and schmaltzy; stay there as little as possible.  It does function well as a relay point for getting to Petra in Jordan and Dahab in the Sinai, Egypt.

4.  We recommend spending two days in Petra, as long as you are bothering to travel this far.  Ideally, we would have stayed in a Bedouin camp within one of the caves, (tour operators are hesitant to book such camps, for reasons unclear to me).
5.  Be forewarned:  Israel charges departure fees (in Shekels or U.S. dollars) when leaving for Jordan and for Egypt.  Country entrance fees are charged by Jordan (in dollars or dinars) and Egypt (only in Egyptian pounds).