Thursday, April 19, 2012

Skiing, the Ups and Downs, in La Thuile, Italy


La Thuile, near Mont Blanc
For the grand finale of our three months of suitcase travel, we skied during the days in La Thuile, as expected.  Not so expected were the evenings spent processing a severance package offered by IBM, while simultaneously arranging to attend my dad’s funeral.  The year abroad, intended for refreshment, reflection and renewal, has truly become a rite of passage.  My head is spinning.
Balcony of home exchange house
Once again, this time in the old alpine village of La Thuile, under the shadow of Mont Blanc, Italy offers finely cultivated living.  We enjoyed Spring skiing and Karoline surprised us all by achieving a new level of competence.  None of us broke a leg or sniffled from a cold.  When not skiing we were swimming in the town’s indoor pool or exploring little alpine towns, savoring the connections with history and the art of living well.  Being avid admirers of finely prepared foods, and with access to a very good kitchen, we became friends with the butcher, cheese maker, vintner, and baker.  Our home exchange hosts once again honored us with generous hospitality.  An ancient barn had been converted into their beautifully decorated second home.  We slept in what had been an animal pen.  During construction they found remnants of an 18th century monk’s candle-making workshop in the barn’s loft.  This is where Karoline slept.
Favorite house in La Thuile



With mixed feelings, our three months exploration came to an end and we routed through Milan for the flight to Athens.  In Milan we spent an afternoon near the Central train station, coming to realize that this is the immigration hub.  Here Karoline enjoyed a much needed hair trim in a Chinese salon.  It was also a Chinese family who served us pizza and spaghetti in their very Italian restaurant and a Chinese family who operated our hotel.    The world is small, is it not?    



La Thuile tips:

Once in La Thuile a car is unnecessary.  Getting to La Thuile can be a challenge and we found the best approach to be a 4 hour bus ride (with two transfers) to return to Milano.  And then we need to take the Metro, with one transfer, to reach Milano Central station for the transfer to the airport.

Homeexchange.com #150571  :  Large enchanting alpine house nestled in an old town within walking distance to the ski slopes. 

Elegant alpine restaurant with a continental flare to local cuisine:  La Creche; +39.335.5244943; via Paolo Debernard, La Thuile

Best pizza in Italy:  Pizzeria Ristorante Du Tunnel; via Circonvallazione n. 80, Courmayeur; +39.0165.841705

Popular restaurant for pizza and more, and our host’s favorite:  La Pepita in La Thuile

At the base of the La Thuile ski lift is a large grocery store, charcuterie and cheese shop.

In the big hotel at the base of the ski lift is a lap pool and work out center (Gerhard finds the equipment old and locker room for men horrible).  I liked the pool and sauna for women.

Internet services are a challenge.  1 hour free in the afternoons at the public library in town, or, for 5 euros during your stay, from 7 p.m. to 3 a.m. there is wifi at the noisy bar at the base of the ski lift, and an extension of the big hotel.  Our hosts loaned us his UMTS USB port cellular service which runs at 14 Mbps, max.

A local bus service can drop you at the full service spa and thermal baths in Pre Saint Didier (we didn’t try it find the fee a bit rich, euros 42 per person)

Courmayeur is also a charming town and worth a stroll through.  The local bus service can drop you there in 20 minutes.

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