Sunday, February 26, 2012

Respite in Bellagio, on Lake Como


Hike affords view down onto Bellagio, Lake Como, Italy

We are enjoying a pleasant and productive visit to Bellagio, on Lake Como, a 15 minute ferry ride from Varenna, which is a 45 minute train ride from Milano.  After scoping out a tourist itinerary for Milano and investigating hotels, we made our first deviation from the original plan and decided, instead, to stay in an apartment on Lake Como. 
Shop and House in Bellagio

At this point, we are fatigued with bustling densely populated cities and too much restaurant eating.  We hit the wall with each others company the day before friend Gina arrived in Rome...two weeks ago. On that day, rather than risk the wraith of my intolerance and sniping at either K or G for very small yet consistent 'infractions', I buried my face in a book.  Gina's stay with us was coincidentally fortuitous as it gave us the excuse to find mental space from one another for ten days, while she appreciated all of our attentions.  We are also finding it redundant (to put it mildly) to load gear, decipher maps, decode transportation systems, translate menus or food labels, and wear *that one t-shirt or pair of jeans* again and again.  But, there isn't much to be done about all of that at the moment, and we have only one more destination before returning to Sifnos.  Three months fly by!

Prada Shoes on display in Milan
Fashion Week is underway in Milano, clogging up our preferred hotels.  Besides, we realized that tourists can see the city's historical highlights in one--very dense--day.  Since Lake Como is conveniently close, we took the train into the city for a day and have otherwise hovered in Bellagio.  We used the excursion as yet another *teaching moment* and insisted that Karoline take the leadership to navigate us through the Top 10 "Must See" sights of Milan.  She did a marvelous job of preparing the itinerary, monitoring the maps, navigating the streets, finding the right train on the right track, transitioning to the right metro line, buying tickets for transportation and museums, etc.  Despite her complaining and grumbling, I can tell that she is proud of her practical living skills.  I see the boost in her self-confidence.  
Galleria Vittorio Emmanuela, Milan


During the week Bellagio has been idyllic and quiet.  The apartment is perfect for our needs--new, minimally furnished, well laid out, fully equipped, comfortable, clean, and only steps from the ferry dock and awesome views.  From the apartment window we can see a church steeple.  Its bells ring prettily on the hour and half hour; 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.  At 8 p.m. each evening someone is playing a tune on its carillon bells and we have fun guessing the name of the composer.  Yesterday evening, around 9 p.m., a chorus of voices sang a hymn while the congregation streamed from the church and down the street. 

At noon yesterday, a Saturday, we stepped out the door for our jogs and were surprised to find the harbor brimming with day visitors.  The Europeans are still not accustomed to joggers:  Karoline and I had our fair share of arrogant snide comments from passersby.  For some reason, the Harley rider gangs and clusters of flashy spandex clad cyclists didn't seem to capture as much attention.  We caught up with Gerhard at an outdoor lakeside cafe where he and Karoline inhaled an ice cream sundae and we watched the glamorously clad strollers pass by the outstanding view.  

Milan has become a city for cyclists


Here in Bellagio Karoline is making satisfying progress with her studies, Gerhard and I are completing our U.S. tax return, and I am drafting a new page for the book.  We are becoming known by the local food shop owners since we do a daily run for our meal preparations.  I am surprised at how well my recalled Italian gets us through our shopping and general inquiries.  Karoline comments that the place feels so much like Sifnos during the low season--friendly casual locals have time to make pleasant conversation.


Bellagoio Tip; apartment:  WWW.BORGORESIDENCE.IT

Life is a Theater: Carnevale in Venice




Carnevale revelers on Piazza San Marco




Gina is still with us and we are enjoying civilized society as only Venetians know how.  We arrived in the snow and may depart in the snow as well.  In between it has been more pleasant to be out and about.  As I write we use the day’s rain as an excuse to get caught up on school work, correspondence, organizing photos, and detoxing our bodies after days of over indulging.  The city has been celebrating Carnevale since our arrival and it is one crowded party scene.  Fortunately, our old, lovely and comfortable home exchange townhouse is in the quieter Siestere of Dorsoduro, surrounded by all the services we could hope for.  
Our grocer in Dorsoduro
Local wine merchant
  The host family is in town, bunking with the grandparents.  The couple work together in their own film making firm that also specializes in organizing grand events in Venice, Carneval being one of them.  On the few occasions when they can break away from work, they have given us the inside scoop on what it has taken to manage this year's festivities.   Amongst other events, they are responsible for the grand finale, the vogata, which is a centuries old tradition of a candlelit gondola caravan that cruises the Grand Canal, this year culminating in a bonfire of a huge floating bull sculpture.  They convinced us to stay an extra two days to participate.  
La Vogata del Silenzio


I don't know how they do it, but the couple has found the time to introduce us to their parents, giving us insight to how old Venetian families live daily.  Both families live in inherited homes in very old palazzos full of Venetian antiques.  We are overwhelmed by their hospitality. 

Yes, we did buy masks and capes for nightly strolls along with the other costumed tourists.  We danced to a DJ in the gated VIP section on St. Mark's Square, thanks to comp tickets from our hosts.  No, we decided against participating in any of the numerous costumed balls, and we dodged the jam-packed streets between San Marco and the Rialto bridge.  Otherwise, the street scene is good enough for us!
Guess who

Venice Tips:
 
Official municipal site for all things Carneval in Venice:  http://www.carnevale.venezia.it/?slang=en

Home exchange townhouse: http://www.homeexchange.com/show.php?id=87396

Restaurants:  The following are the type we prefer.  They are local neighborhood places, casual and bustling yet with white linen tablecloth, super service, excellent cooking, served with a friendly smile and within Euros 30-50 per person for a full dinner.
            Quattro Feri, Dorsoduro, Calle Lunga | Campo S. Barnaba especially for seafood, yet good all around.  
            Locanda Montin, Dorsoduro 1147 for excellent seafood
Incognito
             
Antica Osteria Al Pantalon, Dosoduro; 041.710849, where we took Giorgia and Francesco for the very best prepared seafood I can recall
             
On Murano is very good pizza and other food at Osteria al Duomo; Fondamenta Maschio 20-1; 0415274303

Wine for the daily table is extra good, even if cheap, when buying from Mattiazzi Danilo on Calle Lunga in Dorsoduro.  He operates a low key operation:  doesn’t even make business cards and his signs are hand written.  While he sells wine by the bottle he will also siphon off any quantity you like from his huge basket-encased vats into your own bottles.  His number is 041 522639 6 or 335266574 .
Fresh delicious organic veggies are sold from a boat along one of the minor canals in Dorsoduro.  Prices are very reasonable.

Carneval masks and Murano glass trinkets are in good selection and more reasonably priced when buying in the gifts shops in Dorsoduro.

Besides taking a pause for a coffee break, also try a Ciccheto, a snack with a glass of wine at one of the bars suited for that purpose

Books: 
Death in Venice by Thomas Mann
The City of Falling Angels by John Berendt

The movie The Tourist has a terrible plot yet you can see Johnny Depp pulling stunts in gorgeous Venice scenery.
Doing the Italian Look


Roman Holiday


Michelangelo's The Creation, Sistine Chapel, The Vatican

Desiree, Lorenzo, Vicky perform at Big Mama's
It snowed and there were more Romans on the streets with cameras than tourists.  We were social creatures in Rome, basing ourselves in an enchanting petite apartment near the Coliseum. Our home exchange hosts, Desiree and Lorenzo, treated us to a concert they performed at a blues club "Big Mama" where she sang Bacharach and he played contralto bass, accompanied by musician friends.  Their au pair Vicky, 18 years old, from New Zealand, joined in on violin for one of the numbers.  

Desiree, who works for Fendi, led a tour of its headquarters and flagship store near the Spanish Steps.  While admiring her office, (decorated in the original 17th century Oriental decor), we encountered and conversed with the CEO.  He invited us for a private tour of the new Spring collection displayed on the rooftop that has 360 views of Rome.  We admired the garments and then the fur atelier.  This experience gave Karoline the fashion bug:  "How did Desiree get her job?"
Rain on Spanish Steps
 1981 Wellesley classmate Mary Bartman, has since become Roman.  She and partner Roberto overwhelmed us with Roman hospitality, hosting dinners in restaurants owned by their friends.  As an extra special treat, friend Gina from San Francisco has joined us for a week. 

With an extra day to spare,  we took the train to the beach resort town of Gaeta so that I could show Karoline where I lived at her age when dad was intelligence officer on the Sixth Fleet flagship, (photos:  http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AbuXLhw1bsWTM

Rome Tips:

The Little Black Book of ROME is an excellent concise small guide with maps for touring neighborhoods, sites, shops, restaurants.

Restaurant near Vatican is San Marco (pizza and other Italian dishes); via Tacito 27/29; 06.32.35.596; be assumptive and work your way into the left/back of the restaurant for a table because this section is decorated more finely.  Bathrooms are cool; be sure to check them out.  We three had pizza and broccoli, a shared dessert, 2 coffees, glass of wine, beer, water for Euros 60

Restaurant Ristorante ‘34’; via Mario de fiori, 34 (very near Spanish steps; Metro Spagna), 06 6795091 (closed Monday) www.al34.it

Restaurant near Spanish steps is Trattoria/Pizzeria Arancio d’Or; via Monte d’Oro 17; +39.06.68.65.026.  Authentic Roman, off beaten track so does not attract tourists. 

Desiree Petrocchi (http://www.myspace.com/desireepetrocchi ) has a natural talent in voice and is an excellent performer.  Lorenzo Feliciati (http://www.lorenzofeliciati.com/ ) was all you would want a jazz bass performer to be:  cool, calm and talented.  Big Mama (http://www.bigmama.it/index.html ) is a small blues venue perfect for a casual gathering and in a 'happening' neighborhood.  Accoustics are very good. 

Restaurant in Trastevere:  Before the performance we ate at Checco er Carettiere; via Benedetta 7; 06 581 14 13 and can highly recommend it for excellent Roman food, ambience and service, (although it is a bit pricey).

Restaurant in Gaeta:  Masaniello; Piazza Commestibili 6; beside the Carbanari building near the Coast Guard offices.  Fish and other typical local dishes; decent ambience (cloth table) and good/efficient service. 

Restaurant Tien Tsin off Piazza di Spagna offers decent Chinese food in a nice ambience and helpful pleasant wait staff.  Prices are reasonable.  Via Capo le Case, 55; 06.67.92.297

Restaurant Pizzeria Vignola near Stadio Flamino (Metro Flamino to Tram 2 5 stops).  Very good Roman food from appetizers through dessert.  Pizzas look fab.  Prices reasonable.  Casual atmosphere.  Very popular with neighbors.  Via del Vignola 25/27; 06.322.74.51; www.ristorantevignola.it; closed Wednesday

Hotel Capo d’Africa near Colosseum.  Gina stayed here and highly recommends it for touring.
Restaurant Naumachia near the Colloseum is Desiree’s favorite in the neighborhood.  Try their antipasti specialty by asking for the fried zucchini flower.  Inside is a hint of anchovy and mozzarella cheese.  Via Celimontana, 7; 067002764
Snowstorm closed museums, schools and public transportation


Friday, February 10, 2012

The Hammam Demystified in Istanbul, Turkey


Inside Agia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

January 31, 2012

No, not the harem—which is demystified during tours of the fascinating Ottoman Empire palaces sprinkled throughout the Istanbul area.  I do mean inside the hammam.  This was my first experience with Turkish public bath rituals.  In Istanbul the tourist can find spa treatments in several modernized hammams.  Instead, I wanted a local scene and selected a hammam near a residential neighborhood mosque.  This is how it worked:  With a hair brush and forty lira in my purse I entered through the ladies door of the hammam and was greeted in a lounge area by a kind attendant.  After selecting the basic bath/pool package, including a vigorous scrubbing and massage, I was given a sarong, towel, key to a private dressing room and a new scrubbing mitt.  The dressing room was large enough to include a sofa with pillow for private lounging….a nap, thought I? 
Turkish tea in slim waisted glass
A cluster of girl friends were hanging out in one similar, drinking cups of tea and making merry conversation.  After locking my clothes in the private dressing room, clad in the sarong, I was directed down to the baths and pointed to a water basin in a pod of others.  All was clean steamy moist marble.  The pretty ceiling captured my eye:  sunlight streamed through numerous round pieces of glass, like stars, inserted into white plaster domes.   From the basin of running hot water I mimicked the other women in my pod who used a small bucket to pour water over the body again and again,  allowing time to open pores.  I spent another ten minutes in the sauna for the same purpose, accompanied by two giggling grand dames who spoke endless Turkish to me, even when they knew I understood not a word of it.  The masseuse and scrubber extracted me, pointing to a marble slab in the center of the room large enough to fit three reclining women.  There she gave me a lengthy massage and rigorous rub down, removing the top layer of my skin.  Oddly, the uniform of the two professional masseses was pretty black lingerie.  My scrubber wore a bra and under pants while the other wore only under pants.  Roughly a dozen other women were also in the baths:  a cluster of mom friends with their toddlers in tow, two sets of friends, one mother-daughter couple, and a pair of sisters.  It seems that the baths are a perfect place to parade in one's lovely underwear:  All wore either under pants or bathing suits.  There was much chatter, merriment, and an occasional break out into song as the women bathed one another.  After the scrub, the masseuse escorted me back to the basin where she cleaned my hair with shampoo and soaped my body, rinsing all with bucket after bucket of water.  What a luxury!  I was sent back to the changing room to dry off.  In the lounge area, while using the communal blow dryer, a cup of tea was served.  There the attendant runs a side business: she captured the attention of a cluster of guests lounging on divans and modeled a line of leisure wear on sale.  After 1.5 hours of special attention, I felt oh-so-relaxed-and-radiant.  Next time, along with my hair brush, I will bring an extra pair of pretty under pants and a girl friend. 
 
Descending through quaint Bebek to the Bosphorus
Overall, we had a marvelous experience in Istanbul--what a fascinating city and country!  I found myself shedding preconceptions and learning anew the unique east-meets-west culture.  In addition to the hammam, other highlights were the Bosphorus boat cruise, the Top Kapi Ottoman palace and underground Roman cistern tours.  Topping off the sojourn was listening to ex-pat Julia’s stories about living in a shared rental apartment with other young Turkish women....sort of Sex In The City penniless Turkish style.  Julia is one of the college students we hosted in our Berkeley home when she was interning for Berkeley Press a few summers ago.  Now a Wellesley graduate, she is successfully working as a freelance writer while learning Turkish and waiting for a PhD program to accept her.  We managed to share the better part of three days with Julia, touring and filling her with nutritious meals. 

Sinan's mosque on the Bosphorus
Because Istanbul fully occupied our eight days in Turkey, we made it no further into the country.  Three days of heavy snowfall, inefficient public transit systems on congested roads, and Gerhard's virus cold and suffering knee also meant a slower pace than we usually expect of ourselves.  While Gerhard and I had our hammam experiences, Karoline preferred to spend the time in the apartment on the slow internet service taking quizzes and completing a significant 7th grade lesson milestone. 

View from apartment in Akatlar
We lodged in an attractive rental apartment in a relatively quiet middle class residential neighborhood.  We were thankful to be surrounded by creature comforts that included a kitchen, privacy, space, and spectacular views of the snow shrouded city from the living room picture window. 

As I write we are doing a load of laundry and expect to pack before falling asleep.  Tomorrow we fly to Rome where we will stay in another apartment, another home exchange arrangement.

Istanbul resources:

We can recommend the rental apartment offered by excellent hostess Oya.  One caveat:  transportation into the heart of the city is a bit problematic.  Streets are frequently congested with vehicles.  Metro, metrobus and trams don’t use the car roads so can be faster, but are not particularly easy to reach from the apartment.  The public transit system is crowded and it takes a while to learn the system.  In the 8 days here, we did not master the system.  If the goal is to race through the tourist sites in a quick few days one is better off lodging closer to them,  (www.istanbulcondo.com) .

Mehmet Tetik is an excellent tour guide who will pick up/deliver by car:  http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/guides/tetik_m.html
mobile number: +90 5326120113

I actively read and can recommend any of these guidebooks available in the rental apartment:
Wallpaper City Guide, Phaidon
Eyewitness Travel:  Istanbul
Rick Steves’ Istanbul (my favorite)
The Rough Guide to Istanbul
Culture Smart Turkey

Restaurants we can highly recommend:
Ciya in Kadikoy; reached by taking the ferry to the Asian side of the Bosphorus
As Pera in the fish market (Sancaktepe Merkez Mah. Ataturk Cad, No. 72) which is a street perpendicular to famed Istiklar St. in Taksim.
Asitane restaurant next door to Chora Church.

Hammam associated with mosque Mihrimah, very near Chora Church.

Pamuk’s Nobel Prize winning book Istanbul:  Memories and the City provides an entertaining read and useful cultural insight
Ataturk by Lord Kinross is extremely well written. 
Birds without Wings by Louis de Bernieres is a lovely if sad story based on real history
Not Even My Name by Thea Halo is a true story about the forced march out of Turkey by Pontic Greeks and Armenians around WWI.

Mehmet Tetik recommends the following Sufi music:
CD NeyIstanbul (flute-like music)
Anything by Kutsi Erguner, or, more modern, Mercan Dede