Roman Holiday

Michelangelo's The Creation, Sistine Chapel, The Vatican

Desiree, Lorenzo, Vicky perform at Big Mama's

It snowed and there were more Romans on the streets with cameras than tourists.  We were social creatures in Rome, basing ourselves in an enchanting petite apartment near the Coliseum. Our home exchange hosts, Desiree and Lorenzo, treated us to a concert they performed at a blues club "Big Mama" where she sang Bacharach and he played contralto bass, accompanied by musician friends.  Their au pair Vicky, 18 years old, from New Zealand, joined in on violin for one of the numbers.  

Desiree, who works for Fendi, led a tour of its headquarters and flagship store near the Spanish Steps.  While admiring her office, (decorated in the original 17th century Oriental decor), we encountered and conversed with the CEO.  He invited us for a private tour of the new Spring collection displayed on the rooftop that has 360 views of Rome.  We admired the garments and then the fur atelier.  This experience gave Karoline the fashion bug:  "How did Desiree get her job?"

Rain on Spanish Steps

 1981 Wellesley classmate Mary Bartman, has since become Roman.  She and partner Roberto overwhelmed us with Roman hospitality, hosting dinners in restaurants owned by their friends.  As an extra special treat, friend Gina from San Francisco has joined us for a week. 

With an extra day to spare,  we took the train to the beach resort town of Gaeta so that I could show Karoline where I lived at her age when dad was intelligence officer on the Sixth Fleet flagship, (photos:  http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=2AbuXLhw1bsWTM ) 

Rome Tips:

The Little Black Book of ROME is an excellent concise small guide with maps for touring neighborhoods, sites, shops, restaurants.

Restaurant near Vatican is San Marco (pizza and other Italian dishes); via Tacito 27/29; 06.32.35.596; be assumptive and work your way into the left/back of the restaurant for a table because this section is decorated more finely.  Bathrooms are cool; be sure to check them out.  We three had pizza and broccoli, a shared dessert, 2 coffees, glass of wine, beer, water for Euros 60

Restaurant Ristorante ‘34’; via Mario de fiori, 34 (very near Spanish steps; Metro Spagna), 06 6795091 (closed Monday) www.al34.it

Restaurant near Spanish steps is Trattoria/Pizzeria Arancio d’Or; via Monte d’Oro 17; +39.06.68.65.026.  Authentic Roman, off beaten track so does not attract tourists. 

Desiree Petrocchi (http://www.myspace.com/desireepetrocchi ) has a natural talent in voice and is an excellent performer.  Lorenzo Feliciati (http://www.lorenzofeliciati.com/ ) was all you would want a jazz bass performer to be:  cool, calm and talented.  Big Mama (http://www.bigmama.it/index.html ) is a small blues venue perfect for a casual gathering and in a 'happening' neighborhood.  Accoustics are very good. 

Restaurant in Trastevere:  Before the performance we ate at Checco er Carettiere; via Benedetta 7; 06 581 14 13 and can highly recommend it for excellent Roman food, ambience and service, (although it is a bit pricey).

Restaurant in Gaeta:  Masaniello; Piazza Commestibili 6; beside the Carbanari building near the Coast Guard offices.  Fish and other typical local dishes; decent ambience (cloth table) and good/efficient service. 

Restaurant Tien Tsin off Piazza di Spagna offers decent Chinese food in a nice ambience and helpful pleasant wait staff.  Prices are reasonable.  Via Capo le Case, 55; 06.67.92.297

Restaurant Pizzeria Vignola near Stadio Flamino (Metro Flamino to Tram 2 5 stops).  Very good Roman food from appetizers through dessert.  Pizzas look fab.  Prices reasonable.  Casual atmosphere.  Very popular with neighbors.  Via del Vignola 25/27; 06.322.74.51; www.ristorantevignola.it; closed Wednesday

Hotel Capo d’Africa near Colosseum.  Gina stayed here and highly recommends it for touring.

Restaurant Naumachia near the Colloseum is Desiree’s favorite in the neighborhood.  Try their antipasti specialty by asking for the fried zucchini flower.  Inside is a hint of anchovy and mozzarella cheese.  Via Celimontana, 7; 067002764

Snowstorm closed museums, schools and public transportation