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| Carnevale revelers on Piazza San Marco |
Gina
is still with us and we are enjoying civilized society as only Venetians know
how. We arrived in the snow and may depart in the snow as well. In
between it has been more pleasant to be out and about. As I write we use
the day’s rain as an excuse to get caught up on school work, correspondence,
organizing photos, and detoxing our bodies after days of over indulging.
The city has been celebrating Carnevale since our arrival and it is one crowded
party scene. Fortunately, our old, lovely and comfortable home exchange townhouse is in the quieter Siestere of Dorsoduro, surrounded by all the
services we could hope for.
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| Our grocer in Dorsoduro |
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| Local wine merchant |
The host family is in town, bunking with the grandparents.
The couple work together in their own film making firm that also specializes in
organizing grand events in Venice, Carneval being one of them. On the few
occasions when they can break away from work, they have given us the inside
scoop on what it has taken to manage this year's festivities.
Amongst other events, they are responsible for the grand finale, the vogata, which
is a centuries old tradition of a candlelit gondola caravan that cruises the
Grand Canal, this year culminating in a bonfire of a huge floating bull
sculpture. They convinced us to stay an extra two days to
participate.
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| La Vogata del Silenzio |
I
don't know how they do it, but the couple has found the time to introduce us to
their parents, giving us insight to how old Venetian families live daily.
Both families live in inherited homes in very old palazzos full of Venetian
antiques. We are overwhelmed by their hospitality.
Yes,
we did buy masks and capes for nightly strolls along with the other costumed
tourists. We danced to a DJ in the gated VIP section on St. Mark's
Square, thanks to comp tickets from our hosts. No, we decided against
participating in any of the numerous costumed balls, and we dodged the
jam-packed streets between San Marco and the Rialto bridge. Otherwise, the
street scene is good enough for us!
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| Guess who |
Venice Tips:
Official municipal site for all things Carneval in Venice: http://www.carnevale.venezia.it/?slang=en
Home exchange townhouse: http://www.homeexchange.com/show.php?id=87396
Restaurants: The following are the
type we prefer. They are local
neighborhood places, casual and bustling yet with white linen tablecloth, super
service, excellent cooking, served with a friendly smile and within Euros 30-50
per person for a full dinner.
Quattro Feri, Dorsoduro, Calle Lunga | Campo S. Barnaba especially for seafood, yet good all
around.
Locanda
Montin, Dorsoduro 1147 for excellent seafood
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| Incognito |
Antica
Osteria Al Pantalon, Dosoduro; 041.710849, where we took Giorgia and Francesco
for the very best prepared seafood I can recall
On
Murano is very good pizza and other food at Osteria al Duomo; Fondamenta
Maschio 20-1; 0415274303
Wine for the daily table is extra good, even if
cheap, when buying from Mattiazzi Danilo on Calle Lunga in Dorsoduro. He operates a low key operation: doesn’t even make business cards and his
signs are hand written. While he sells
wine by the bottle he will also siphon off any quantity you like from his huge
basket-encased vats into your own bottles.
His number is 041 522639 6 or 335266574 .
Fresh delicious organic veggies are sold from a
boat along one of the minor canals in Dorsoduro. Prices are very reasonable.
Carneval masks and Murano glass trinkets are in
good selection and more reasonably priced when buying in the gifts shops in
Dorsoduro.
Besides taking a pause for a coffee break, also try a Ciccheto, a snack with a glass of wine at one of the bars suited for that purpose
Books:
Death in Venice by Thomas Mann
The City of Falling Angels by John Berendt
The movie The Tourist has a terrible plot yet you can see Johnny Depp pulling stunts in gorgeous Venice scenery.
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| Doing the Italian Look |
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